On the 11th i had gone with my mother for a visit to the dentist. I was reading the India Today magazine there and had a glance through the following article.
The Forgotten City
Author: Uday Mahurkar
Publication: India Today
Date: March 27, 2006
Introduction: Vadnagar, a repository of exquisite specimens of Indian architecture and antiquity, is waiting to be discovered.
Legendary Chinese traveller Hieuen Tsang had described his visit to this ancient town in his travelogue on India. Be it the magnificent Hatkeshwar temple, the Kirti Toran arch, or the beautiful step-well of Pancham Mehta, Vadnagar-a town in north Gujarat which has figured virtually in every period of Indian history over the past 2,000 years-waits to be discovered in this new heritage era.
The city, which found prominence during Gujarat's famous Solanki era, came closest to recognition when the Tourism and Culture Ministry of the previous NDA government decided to recommend it to UNESCO as a
world heritage site. But before things could move further, a new political
regime took over.
Apart from the Solanki era monuments, Vadnagar is also the town of origin of the Vadnagara Brahmins, an influential caste over the centuries.
The Hatkeshwar temple, whose Shivlinga is the presiding deity of the
Vadnagara Brahmins, is a perfect example of the treasures the city has to
offer. There are exquisitely carved tales from the Mahabharata and the
Ramayana on the walls, besides a host of other Hindu religious texts. One of the carvings depicts an apsara so immersed in dancing that she is oblivious to a scorpion climbing up her leg. The images of Dhata and Vidhata-the gods who draw up the life-course of new-borns-holding writing material in their hands, are the other attractions.
The temple's shikhar is adorned by a series of garlands, the hallmark of Solanki era architecture. The images of musicians playing instruments are
eyecatching. Vadnagar, which was earlier known as Anandpur, also finds
mention in the Nagarkhand chapter of the Skanda Purana. It used to be
famous as a hub of music and architecture. No wonder then that even today music fetes here draw an enthusiastic response from the locals.
Kirti Toran, a 40-ft-high arch possibly meant for a temple, never fails to
entrance visitors. Built by a Solanki ruler, perhaps to commemorate victory in a battle, the toran in red and yellow sandstone has carvings of battle
and hunting scenes. Many images of gods and goddesses on the arch now stand disfigured. They were, according to historians, vandalised by the armies of Allauddin Khilji, the first Muslim invader to raid north Gujarat
during the Sultanate period. Interestingly, dismantled parts of a similar
but much bigger arch lie in the vicinity. These two arches may have been
part of a big temple complex.
On Vadnagar's outskirts stands the dilapidated Pancham Mehta ni Vav, a
beautiful seven-storey step-well. It was built by a local leader, Pancham
Mehta, in the 16th century for providing drinking water to travellers.
Though step-wells were common in Gujarat and Rajasthan during the medieval period, this Vav is unique. It has two wells and is linked to a water channel with carved outlets from which to drink water. This
arrangement was for those who wanted to drink water but didn't want to
climb seven storeys down.
Yet another attraction is the Gauri-kund, a square-shaped holy pond with a resting pavilion, which, even today, is thronged by people for post-death
rituals. The steps leading to the pond bear carvings from Hindu scriptures. A stone stand with a tulsi plant atop completes this religious depiction.
The most famous place in Vadnagar is the spot with the samadhis of two legendary classical singers Tana and Riri, sisters who saved the life of
Tansen, Akbar's great court musician. Legend has it that Tansen's body
started burning after Akbar forced him to sing the Deepak raag, which was meant to invoke fire. Tana and Riri sang the raag Megh Malhar and saved Tansen by invoking rain. In gratitude, he composed the famous Tarana raag, named after Tana and Riri.
The samadhis of Tana and Riri, made of sandstone, were in a dilapidated state till recently, when at Chief Minister Narendra Modi's initiative restoration work was done. The samadhis are now part of a big complex,
complete with a garden and a cultural spot where the annual Tana-Riri music festival is held. Modi is also getting the Sharmishtha lake, around which Vadnagar is located, renovated in a more aesthetic fashion. His mother still lives in the city.
The entrance gates to Vadnagar, too, present a very interesting spectacle.
The Arjunbari gate has an A.D. 1151 inscription by Shripal, the court poet
of Kumarpala, one of the most dynamic Solanki rulers. All the gates have
the image of Lord Ganesh on one side and Kalbhairav on the other.
Several excavations have been carried out in this area, which have yielded copper plates of Maitraka and Solanki rulers, rare coins and hidden
structures and images from various periods. But this is only the tip of the iceberg. A lot more lies buried in this town, which cries for recognition
on the country's heritage map.
For maps, weather and information for airports close to Vadnagar, follow this link:
http://www.fallingrain.com/world/IN/9/Vadnagar.html
More tourist information at following sites:
http://www.tourism-of-india.com/vadnagar.html
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